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March 2008 Issue

An Englishman in Beijing

McCaffery goes behind the Great Wall and discovers a country of nationalized bliss.

By Aidan McCaffery

Last month I spent two weeks in China. I found the Chinese to be kind, hospitable and excited to be hosting one of the world's most celebrated sporting events. As British cynicism towards the 2012 Olympics starts to grow, I long for some good old fashioned, state controlled TV to inject some enthusiasm into the British public.


I know nothing about sport. Football, cricket, rugby, American football, baseball, er… rugby. Yes, I know so little about sports that I even struggle to come up with a comprehensive list of sports I know nothing about and then start to repeat them. This lack of knowledge extends to the Olympics. I couldn't name any athletes, and would be hard pushed to name five Olympic events. So much so that when I visited China last month to see a school friend I felt compelled to ask, "So, does China have any pre-existing athletic stars going into the Beijing 2008, or will the games make the stars?" (That's right, I hadn't even heard of basketball superstar Yao Ming). He laughed and replied, "Yes, China does have stars. But the real star of the Beijing Olympics is the Communist Party of China."

Make no mistake; the Beijing Olympics will be ready on time. There have been no Athens style delays in the construction for new Olympic buildings (although there have been alleged cover ups of deaths in the completion of the Beijing National Stadium, a.k.a the Bird's Nest). The city's subway network is growing bigger by the day.


© Olympicblogspot.blogspot.com

And the people are incredibly enthusiastic about the whole thing. As my friend explained to me, the Chinese see it as their country becoming part of the rest of the world again. Of course, as a cynical, freedom of speech devouring Westerner, it's hard to take such excitement with anything more than a pinch of salt and a granule of skepticism, especially the way the upcoming games is sold through the state controlled television networks. However, as we wined and dined with various locals I began to find this CPC-encouraged enthusiasm quite endearing, and for a brief moment, a brief, brief moment, I almost longed for such optimism in the UK.

You see, the problem with England is that even in our happiest moments, we can be quite a cynical bunch. Our excitement at 'winning' the 2012 Olympics was confined to the day we won it. True, the following day London experienced a major terrorist attack (always a mood dampener), but I believe that our excitement would've waned anyway. As the crowds departed Trafalgar Square and the following day's news media became filled with footage of people celebrating in the streets, it quickly became evident that we were excited for two reasons, neither of which had anything to do with hosting one of the most prestigious sporting events in the world.

The first was that we never win anything, and now he had. Since 1966, our national football team has never won the world cup, or even got to the final, and have never won the European cup. At the time, we hadn't won a major cricketing cup or the Ashes since 1989. Tim Henman, the great British hope, had failed to deliver a major tennis prize despite being the UK's joint most successful open era player. And we've never won the Baseball World Series. Although that might be because the 'World' of its title is, presumably, ironic. And so winning the Olympics was a massive coup for us, even if the only thing we'd won was the right to host the games. This in itself isn't so cynical. I view it as a poor bowling player getting excited when they manage to knock over more than one pin, even if they still only score in the single digits. It's endearing.


Advertising poster for the 2008 Beijing Games.


What is slightly more dubious is that our elation did seem, at least in part, due the fact that we'd not only won something, but that in the process we'd beaten the French to the prize. If there's anything England loves more than beating the Germans, it's beating the French. And I'm sure even our most impassioned celebrators don't know why. I remember the days following our victory the newspapers were filled with hoards of anti-French jokes. Most of them were poor, the kind where the jokes aren't really about the French but whoever happens to be in the country next to you. You know, "how many <insert foreign nation of your disliking here> does it take to change a light bulb?' That's English enthusiasm for you: excitement based on petty one-upmanship and an ancient rivalry, which no one really understands. And we're supposed to be multi-cultural.

What's worse is, while I was speaking to Chinese people and experiencing their enthusiasm for the year ahead of them and what it means to their society and the city, I had a flash forward of my life for the next four years, which will basically consist of watching and reading news reports of people moaning that the city transport links will be slightly compromised by construction for the Olympics. Yes, I predict the excitement of 2005 will dissipate quite quickly when we realize planning for 2012 might actually involve an eleven-minute detour via the Piccadilly line. Maybe it's a good thing. Clearly we hate the French, but not enough to feign happiness as we endure seven years of minutely obstructive construction work and pretend we think it's a good thing.

If it drains the cynical blood out the Englishman and replaces it with some good, inoffensive Chinese optimism, then give me state controlled television any day. Preferably before the next series of The X Factor begins. Although without all those bad Chinese soap operas about monkeys misbehaving in palace courts.


Send comments on Aidan’s column to a.f.mccaffery@gmail.com

 
 
   

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